INSTALLATION FAQ

PLANNING TILE OR STONE INSTALLATION

Crack Isolation Membranes

What is a crack isolation membrane?

A crack isolation membrane is a thin membrane that isolates thin-set ceramic tile and dimensional stone from minor in-plane substrate cracking. The crack isolation membrane can be trowel applied, a liquid or a sheet membrane, that the tile or dimensional stone is direct bonded to. Please see ANSI A118.12 for additional guidelines. Current crack isolation membranes from TexRite; UniFlex trowel applied, HydroRite liquid membrane, and the NAC products line which are all sheet type membranes.

When should a crack isolation membrane be used?

Whenever cracks in substrates need to be isolated from the finished floor. Especially when installing an intricate patterned floor or expensive dimensional stone.

Can I use crack isolation membranes over expansion joints?

No. Expansion joints are designed to handle building movement both horizontally and vertically. All expansion joints must be carried through the tile or stone finish. See Tile Council of North America Handbook EJ171 regarding movement joints.

What TexRite product do I use to bond tile or dimensional stone to a crack isolation membrane?

The first step is to always verify the compatibility of cement-based thin-sets to the crack isolation membrane that has been specified or installed on the job. CAUTION: There are numerous membranes available in the marketplace today that are not compatible with tile or dimensional stone installations. Usage of crack isolation membranes meeting ANSI A118.12 insures compatibility with ceramic tile setting materials. If you are unsure, verify compatibility with the membrane manufacturer before installing tile or dimensional stone. TexRite Ceramabond, MultiPurpose, TotalContact, CeramaFlex, UniFlex and EpoxyPlus 2002 are all compatible with many of the membranes currently available.

I need to float my floor before installing ceramic tile, what do I install first the crack isolation membrane or the float?

The float material should always be installed first to allow placement of the crack isolation membrane as close as possible to the finish tile surface to stop any cracks from migrating into the tile. If installed properly, any float work will stay bonded to the substrate even though it might crack; in that case, the crack isolation membrane is on top of the float where it will isolate the crack from the tile.

Can I install one of the TexRite crack isolation membranes outside on my patio before installing 18”x18” slate?

Yes. TexRite HydroRite or UniFlex can be used on exterior applications in addition to the NAC Products membranes. Caution: Exterior patios typically do not have a moisture barrier underneath therefore make sure there is functional drainage of the surrounding soil to reduce the possibility of hydrostatic pressure causing a membrane bonding failure.

Waterproofing Membranes

I am planning a new house, where should I think about using a waterproof membrane?

Anyplace where tile or dimensional stone is applied over a substrate that can be damaged by moisture contact. Example, tub decks and surrounds, showers including benches, seats and recessed boxes, exterior balconies, occupied spaces under wet areas i.e. upstairs laundry room and bathroom floors. The application of TexRite HydroRite waterproof membrane before the installation of tile or dimensional stone in the above areas would be an excellent investment.

Can TexRite HydroRite be used for exterior waterproofing under tile or dimensional stone installations?

Yes. Residential and commercial applications would both benefit from the application of HydroRite as a waterproof membrane

I am remodeling a bathroom and planning to use a cement- based tile backer-board. Should I consider using a waterproof membrane as well even though the backer-board is cement?

The confusion seems to be associated with the word ‘cement.’ Although cement is not typically affected by water exposure, cement is not waterproof. The typical tile backer-board is ½” thick. Water can pass through many of the backer-boards leaving the board and tile surface structurally intact but, over time, can cause extensive damage to the walls, floors and ceilings behind or around the tile installation. Applying TexRite HydroRite as a waterproof membrane to the backer-board before the tile or stone installation is a good practice, especially treating the joints, the weakest area of the backer-board installation. CAUTION: Always check the local building codes for guidelines on waterproofing and vapor barriers, when remodeling bathroom areas.

When TexRite HydroRite is applied as a waterproof membrane, will it prevent water or moisture from entering the underside of the installed system?

No. A waterproof membrane functions as a ‘positive’ side barrier to stop water or moisture penetration from the top of the installation preventing damage to the substrate. Water or moisture that is rising up through the substrate is on the ‘negative’ side of the installation and must be handled with a different method or product.

Setting Materials

I am planning a new house, where should I think about using a waterproof membrane?

Anyplace where tile or dimensional stone is applied over a substrate that can be damaged by moisture contact. Example, tub decks and surrounds, showers including benches, seats and recessed boxes, exterior balconies, occupied spaces under wet areas i.e. upstairs laundry room and bathroom floors. The application of TexRite HydroRite waterproof membrane before the installation of tile or dimensional stone in the above areas would be an excellent investment.

Can TexRite HydroRite be used for exterior waterproofing under tile or dimensional stone installations?

Yes. Residential and commercial applications would both benefit from the application of HydroRite as a waterproof membrane

I am remodeling a bathroom and planning to use a cement- based tile backer-board. Should I consider using a waterproof membrane as well even though the backer-board is cement?

The confusion seems to be associated with the word ‘cement.’ Although cement is not typically affected by water exposure, cement is not waterproof. The typical tile backer-board is ½” thick. Water can pass through many of the backer-boards leaving the board and tile surface structurally intact but, over time, can cause extensive damage to the walls, floors and ceilings behind or around the tile installation. Applying TexRite HydroRite as a waterproof membrane to the backer-board before the tile or stone installation is a good practice, especially treating the joints, the weakest area of the backer-board installation. CAUTION: Always check the local building codes for guidelines on waterproofing and vapor barriers, when remodeling bathroom areas.

When TexRite HydroRite is applied as a waterproof membrane, will it prevent water or moisture from entering the underside of the installed system?

No. A waterproof membrane functions as a ‘positive’ side barrier to stop water or moisture penetration from the top of the installation preventing damage to the substrate. Water or moisture that is rising up through the substrate is on the ‘negative’ side of the installation and must be handled with a different method or product.

Cement Grouting Materials

My new tan grout turned white overnight, why?

Efflorescence. Soluble salts that are in Portland cement based setting and grouting materials have migrated to the top of the grout joint. This is not a grout defect, it can happen anywhere, with any cement-based grout, with the most experienced installer to the newest. It more frequently occurs when grouting in cooler weather with high humidity but it can occur at any time. Try a stiff bristled brush dry, scrubbing vigorously, if that does not work, then a Sulfamic acid wash will be required to remove the efflorescence. See Tech Bulletin #000 in the Technical Bulletin section of this web site.

The grout in the vertical corners of my shower continues to crack after repairs have been made?

Changes in plane such as vertical corners in a shower must be grouted with a flexible sealant (caulk). Grout cracking is a common problem when the flexible sealant has been omitted in an area that is constantly moving. Use a quality caulking material. Make sure the joints are clean and dry before caulking and allow the caulking to cure for 72 hrs before using the shower. The caulking depth should be at least one-half as deep as the grout joint to adequately provide enough caulking to handle the movement without premature cracking. The caulking requires dry, clean and sound surfaces to bond to. If the tile has a glazed edge, the glaze should be mechanically removed to assist the caulking bond before applying the caulking.

The grout in my new tile floor is cracking, soft and full of pinholes. What can I do?

Cement grout typically cracks because of some type of movement in the substrate or tile plane. When new cement grout is soft, it could be from using old grout, high absorption tile, improper curing caused by high or low temperatures, hot-drying wind across installation, failure to damp cure if required and a dry concrete substrate. Pinholes, in cement grout are typically the result of mixing too fast with a mixer and or excessive water in mix and clean up. To correct soft grout, damp cure the grout with plain water by misting the joint for three days, this method has been found to harden soft cement grout. Cracked grout should be cleaned out and re-grouted, taking care to dampen the surrounding grout before placing the new grout. Grout with excessive pinholes and voids will continue to deteriorate over time unless it is re-grouted.

My new grout is splotchy, light and dark?

The grout joints in my new floor are dark at the tile corners and look great along the joint, why?

If spacers were used to install the tile, were they removed before grouting? This is the most common reason for dark grout joints only at the tile corners.

Epoxy Grouting Materials

When can I use TexRite EpoxyPlus 2002 epoxy grout instead of cement grout?

Practically anywhere cement grout is normally used, EpoxyPlus 2002 can replace it. The few exceptions where EpoxyPlus 2002 would not be the best choice; grouting absorptive dimensional stone that could show a ‘picture frame’ darkening from the epoxy, and limited use with glass tiles, check specific glass tile manufacturers guidelines.

How much TexRite EpoxyPlus 2002 would I need for my tiling project?

Visit the Application and Coverage Charts area of the TexRite website to use the calculator feature in determining the amount of epoxy grout needed.

I am planning a master bath remodel, would epoxy grout be an option instead of cement grout?

I am planning a master bath remodel, would epoxy grout be an option instead of cement grout?

Do I need to use a grout release or pre-sealer when grouting with epoxy?

Typically no. The exception might be when grouting a highly porous tile or one with a rough textured surface. Then, the use of a grout release or pre-sealer might be needed to help during the clean-up procedure after grouting. Instead of pigments, TexRite EpoxyPlus 2002 utilizes aggregate that is color coated so the color does not stain or discolor the tile. If unsure, do a small test area and check for discoloration.

Can I use epoxy grout outdoors?

Yes. TexRite EpoxyPlus 2002 can be used outdoors for most applications. Note: The lighter colors could darken with age from exposure to UV light rays.

Can I start an epoxy grouting installation one day and complete it several days later without color variation issues?

Yes. TexRite EpoxyPlus 2002 will give you the luxury of completing the grouting over several days while maintaining a true and consistent grout joint color. An important benefit of TexRite EpoxyPlus 2002 is the total absence of any water or colored cement grout in the mixed product. EpoxyPlus 2002 is packaged complete, with all of the required powder and liquids and an added bonus of the mixing container. Whereas, with cement grouts, day-to-day, or mix-to-mix water variation and environmental conditions will affect the final color of the grout.

Why is epoxy grout so expensive to install over cement grout?

This could be classified as an epoxy myth considering present day epoxies. Comparing TexRite EpoxyPlus 2002 epoxy grout to cement grout is somewhat involved when searching for the answer to this question. To begin with, one must compare a cement grout that has been sealed with a ‘premium’ grout sealer to TexRite EpoxyPlus 2002. Next, with TexRite EpoxyPlus 2002 there are no concerns with efflorescence, color fade from over washing and inconsistent color from excess water during clean-up, to name a few. Yes, the installer will use more sponges, scrub pads and a few towels with TexRite EpoxyPlus 2002 that are not needed with cement grout, but the cost per square foot comparison is very revealing. TexRite EpoxyPlus 2002 grout will normally price out at .19 to .22 per square foot as compared to cement grout with a premium sealer pricing out at .27 to .30 per square foot material cost only, not the installed cost. NOTE: This comparison is based on a 1,ooo square foot floor using 16”x16” ceramic tile with a 3/16” grout joint width

TROUBLESHOTTING A TITLE ORE STONE INSTALLATION

Planning Tile Or Stone Installation

How flat should a surface be before installing tile or stone?

The finished installation is only as good as the substrate. Large body tile and stone, 16”x16” or larger, dominate the marketplace today. The recommended industry standard states ¼-inch in 10 feet maximum permissible variation in the plane to receive ceramic tile, and 1/8-inch in 10 feet for stone including both floors and walls.

How do I prepare floors or walls before installing tile or stone?

Make sure the existing surface is clean, structurally sound, dry and free from all bond-inhibiting materials. Waxes, sealers, curing compounds, old adhesives, cutback, paint, dirt, grease and oil, are all bond-inhibiting materials and need to be removed or properly prepared before installing tile or stone finishes. Use TexRite FlowRite, La-O-Tex Special 3-1, La-O-Tex Underlayment, Port-A-Patch or FeatherRite for floor prep applications. Use TexRite Wall Mud, RapidBond or TotalContact for wall prep applications.

How do I test the substrate for absorption?

Before applying any floor prep material, thinsets or membranes, the substrate must have absorption to aid in the bonding of these products. A simple but effective test is to spray the substrate with clean water from a quart size spray bottle, nozzle set on stream, while walking around the room, expecting immediate absorption of the water into the substrate. If absorption is not immediate, removal of contaminants is required.

Can I install tile over a painted or stained surface?

For best results, the paint or stain must be mechanically removed. The paint or stain can peel, breakdown or come loose resulting in a partial or total bond failure. Mechanical removal is the most effective and preferred method of removal over chemical applications. Why? The use of chemicals to remove paint, sealers, stains or coatings from a substrate can drive the mixed chemical residue into the substrate, effectively creating a ‘bond breaker’ below the surface of the substrate. After proper preparation of the surface, use TexRite CeramaBond, TotalContact or CeramaFlex to bond the tile or stone with.

Can I install tile over existing ceramic tile or cement terrazzo?

Yes. However, all ceramic tile and terrazzo must be structurally sound and well bonded before tiling. Additionally, the following guidelines should be followed. Ceramic Tile: Sweep or vacuum the floor to remove any loose debris. Clean the floor with a strong degreaser to remove any build-up, waxes, sealers or other bond-inhibiting materials. An acid wash with phosphoric or sulfamic acid might be needed to remove grout sealers, efflorescence or other mineral deposits on the tile surface or grout joint. COMPLETELY rinse the floor 2-3 times with water and baking soda to remove all cleaning residue and to neutralize the acid. Abrade tile surfaces if possible to assure proper bonding, removing all dust and debris before setting tile. Use TexRite CeramaBond, TotalContact, CeramaFlex, RapidBond or UniFlex to set the tile. If the floor needs to be leveled off, use TexRite FeatherRite or FlowRite before setting the new tile. Cement Terrazzo: Typically, all cement terrazzo floors have been maintained with waxes, sealers and polishes, which are all bond-inhibiting materials and must be completely removed before installing ceramic tile. Follow the same guidelines as bonding over ceramic tile. Can I install tile over existing vinyl or cut back adhesive? Yes. However, the following guidelines apply. It is always ‘best practice’ to remove all vinyl products before setting tile. Follow local and federal guidelines if the vinyl or cut back contains asbestos. See additional guidelines at www.rfci.com website. Existing Vinyl: The installation is only as good as the bond of the vinyl to whatever substrate it is over. The vinyl flooring must be a full spread adhered system, NOT PERIMETER TACKED. CAUTION: Do not install tile over any type of cushioned vinyl. Clean vinyl with a strong degreaser/ stripper to remove any waxes, polishes or sealers. Use TexRite CeramaBond, TotalContact, CeramaFlex or UniFlex to set tile. Cut Back: Verify that the cut back adhesive is non-water-soluble by placing soapy water on the adhesive and agitating, if the adhesive softens it is water soluble and must be completely removed. If it does not dissolve use TexRite CeramaFlex or TexRite UniFlex to set the tile.

I have enclosed my back porch or garage and need to bring the new surface level with the interior floor, what product do I use?

Exterior slabs like porches or garage floors, are sloped for drainage and need to be built up and leveled before tile or stone can be applied. First, make sure the existing slab is clean, dry, structurally sound and free from any bond-inhibiting materials. Because of the slope, the new leveling layer will be thicker on the side away from the house or in the area of the original garage opening. Use TexRite La-O-Tex Special 3-1 underlayment to build-up to 1-1/2” with a single lift. Additional lifts can be applied a 24 hour drying period and priming for the second lift. Some garages and especially porches were constructed without a moisture barrier underneath the slab. This can allow excessive moisture flow through the slab that can create moisture and efflorescence problems with a ceramic tile installation if steps are not taken to correct the situation. Slabs without moisture barriers beneath the concrete should be treated with a moisture barrier above the leveling material prior to the installation of ceramic tile.

I have a 700 square foot open space that needs to be leveled for the application of a 24”x24” honed limestone, what product do I use?

Because the limestone will probably be set with a narrow 3/16” or smaller grout joint, it is critical that the floor be as flat as possible to reduce lippage. The best combination of products for this installation would be to first, float the floor with TexRite FlowRite self-leveling underlayment, which can be applied as thick as 1”, then set the limestone with TexRite TotalContact medium bed mortar, which can be up to ¾”-inch thick after the tile has been properly imbedded. This combination of products delivers a flat, smooth underlayment in conjunction with a high performance medium bed mortar that reduces lippage and supports the large, heavy, stone tiles without allowing the stone to ‘sink’ into the bonding mortar.

How can I smooth out a concrete slab to accept vinyl or glue down wood

If the slab has minor low spots or ‘bird baths’, then use use TexRite Port-A-Patch to fill in or patch where needed. When the entire floor needs to be skim-coated, use TexRite FeatherRite, a sandable, fast drying, unsanded, skim coating product. Both of these products are cement based, high polymer modified, substrate preparation materials suitable for applications under vinyl, VCT, wood, carpet, ceramic tile or stone.

The tiled balcony outside of my master bedroom has a thick, hard, and white crystal looking material growing off of the edge that looks like icicles. I called the installer and he said he placed a waterproof membrane under the mortar bed so it must be something else.

What you see is efflorescence, which is the result of water saturating the mortar bed and activating the soluble salts within the mud bed. These soluble salts flow with the excess water and, as the water evaporates, the salts crystallize which results in efflorescence. A thick mortar bed is like a sponge and can hold large amounts of water; the waterproof membrane under the mortar bed protects the substrate or structure below the balcony from water damage but does not protect the mud bed from absorbing water. Is the balcony properly sloped to allow water runoff? Are the exposed edges of the mortar bed properly flashed or treated with the waterproof membrane? The efflorescence crystals can cause severe damage to the tile installation over time if not corrected. See Tile Council of America Handbook 2007; F103-07 and F104-07 for approved exterior tile deck installations. We have seen successful installations using TexRite HydroRite waterproof membrane under the mud bed as well as over the mud bed and on the edges of the mud bed prior to installation of the tile to prevent this problem.

Crack Isolation Membranes

My tile floor is 10 years old and recently developed cracks, why?

Some of the reasons for cracking include; the substrate has cracked and what you see now is ‘reflective’ cracking coming through the tile; the tile was direct bonded to improperly installed backer board or plywood and the cracks in the tile are directly over the joints in the backer board or plywood.

I have cracks in my tile driveway that are approximately 10 to 12 feet apart, but my neighbor does not, why?

Are the expansion joints in your neighbor’s driveway visible in the finished tile layer but not in yours? Expansion joints in all substrates should be carried through the finished tile layer. See Tile Council of North America—Handbook EJ171-07 Movement Joint Design Essentials. Under these guidelines: all expansion, contraction, construction, cold, and seismic joints in the structure should continue through the tile work. Exterior Movement joint placement should be 8’ to 12’ in each direction. Expansion and contraction joints should be specified as to location by the architect, builder or design professional.

My one-year-old house has developed long; running cracks in the tile floor. The Builder said that he always uses a 12” wide crack-isolation membrane under all of his tile floors to treat the visible cracks and this should not happen, help?

Without knowing if the cracks are relative to the crack-isolation material used or if these are new cracks, the following areas are possible causes; improperly installed crack-isolation membrane, the thin-set is not bonding to the membrane, new substrate cracks from settling of the house showing up as reflective cracks. What size of tile is installed? With a 12” wide membrane, a tile that is 18”x18” or larger could easily bridge the membrane if it is bonded on either side, effectively canceling any crack isolation properties of the membrane.

Cement Grouting Materials

My new tan grout turned white overnight, why?

Efflorescence. Soluble salts that are in Portland cement based setting and grouting materials have migrated to the top of the grout joint. This is not a grout defect, it can happen anywhere, with any cement-based grout, with the most experienced installer to the newest. It more frequently occurs when grouting in cooler weather with high humidity but it can occur at any time. Try a stiff bristled brush dry, scrubbing vigorously, if that does not work, then a Sulfamic acid wash will be required to remove the efflorescence. See Tech Bulletin #000 in the Technical Bulletin section of this web site.

The grout in the vertical corners of my shower continues to crack after repairs have been made?

Changes in plane such as vertical corners in a shower must be grouted with a flexible sealant (caulk). Grout cracking is a common problem when the flexible sealant has been omitted in an area that is constantly moving. Use a quality caulking material. Make sure the joints are clean and dry before caulking and allow the caulking to cure for 72 hrs before using the shower. The caulking depth should be at least one-half as deep as the grout joint to adequately provide enough caulking to handle the movement without premature cracking. The caulking requires dry, clean and sound surfaces to bond to. If the tile has a glazed edge, the glaze should be mechanically removed to assist the caulking bond before applying the caulking.

The grout in my new tile floor is cracking, soft and full of pinholes. What can I do?

Cement grout typically cracks because of some type of movement in the substrate or tile plane. When new cement grout is soft, it could be from using old grout, high absorption tile, improper curing caused by high or low temperatures, hot-drying wind across installation, failure to damp cure if required and a dry concrete substrate. Pinholes, in cement grout are typically the result of mixing too fast with a mixer and or excessive water in mix and clean up. To correct soft grout, damp cure the grout with plain water by misting the joint for three days, this method has been found to harden soft cement grout. Cracked grout should be cleaned out and re-grouted, taking care to dampen the surrounding grout before placing the new grout. Grout with excessive pinholes and voids will continue to deteriorate over time unless it is re-grouted.

My new grout is splotchy, light and dark?

This is typically the result of too much water during clean up, in the grout mix or cleaning too soon (before the grout has “set up” in the joints during installation). This can also be caused by inconsistent absorption of the tile due to glazed edges

The grout joints in my new floor are dark at the tile corners and look great along the joint, why?

If spacers were used to install the tile, were they removed before grouting? This is the most common reason for dark grout joints only at the tile corners.

Bonding

Several tiles have become loose on my new floor and I have noticed that the thin-set is adhered to the substrate but not to the tile?

Most likely, the tile was not imbedded into the thin-set soon enough allowing the thin-set to glaze or skin over on the surface. Other possibilities; thin-set was spread to far ahead of tile laying, thin-set was mixed too dry, tile was not properly imbedded into the thin-set.

I replaced the vinyl floor in my kitchen with ceramic tile last year, now the tile has started to crack; sound hollow and numerous tiles have lost bond, what happened?

Gypsum based underlayments are frequently used under vinyl and carpet to smooth out the substrate. When you removed the vinyl was the concrete white? If so, gypsum based underlayments were probably used to prepare for the vinyl and the water in the tile thin-set has softened the gypsum over time and resulted in a bond failure. The gypsum underlayment will have to be completely removed to make the correct repair on your tile floor. Use TexRite Latex Underlayment or TexRite FlowRite, both cement based products, to prepare the substrate before installing ceramic tile.

The tiles on my outdoor kitchen are loose and falling off, it is constructed with treated plywood and lumber, what can I use to re-bond the tiles?

First, traditional tile setting products do not bond to treated wood; second, outdoor kitchens that will be tiled should be constructed with steel studs or masonry, wood moves entirely too much outdoors to direct bond ceramic tile. Repair? Try the local Big Box for an adhesive in a tube that will bond to the treated wood.

The tile risers on my front steps continue to become loose, how can I make a repair that will last?

Use an elastomeric caulking material in place of cement grout between the tile riser and the treads. The repetitive stress of expansion over time will pop the tiles off if there is no allowance to absorb this movement. Use TexRite UniFlex to bond the tile in combination with the correct caulking material.

The tile on my balcony is shearing loose from the waterproofing membrane, how can I prevent this?

Is the waterproof membrane compatible with cement thin-sets for a direct bond? There are many different waterproof membranes that do an excellent job of waterproofing if installed correctly. Not all waterproof membranes will accept cement based bonding materials, check with the manufacturer for compatibility. Use TexRite HydroRite or NAC Strataflex Waterproof Membranes for complete compatibility with TexRite setting materials

The ceramic tile floor in my living room has buckled, lifted up and is loose in the middle of the room, why?

Lack of Movement Joints. Everything expands and contracts from temperature changes. Ceramic tile and concrete expand and contract at different rates when exposed to the same temperature change. Without the proper Movement Joints (soft joints) incorporated into the tile installation temperature changes can put pressure on the tile to the extent that the thin-set bond will fail due to shear and the tile will lift up typically called ‘tenting’. When this expansion and contraction occurs, there must be an outlet to relieve or absorb this movement. If not, the stress will find the weakest point and relieve itself in this area. Use proper Movement Joints according to EJ171 in the TCNA Handbook. Usage ofTexRite HydroRite or NAC ECB membrane as a full floor coverage anti-fracture membrane and bonding the tile with TexRite CeramaFlex to help isolate the movement from the finished tile flooring can prevent loss of bond and “tenting”.

All of the tiles on my kitchen floor have lost bond between the thin-set and concrete slab. Why?

Most likely , bond- inhibiting materials were not properly removed from the substrate before installing tile. Paint, drywall mud, wood stain, grease, oil, curing compounds, dirt, old adhesives and cut back residue are considered bond-inhibiting materials that can cause floor failures.

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